Tag: architecture
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The villa of King Zog at Durres … disintegrating dreams
This was a haunting place. Built by King Zog, short–lived king of Albania in the 30s, as a place for receptions and as a summer retreat he only enjoyed it for a year before he was deposed. Walking through the derelict rooms echoes of the interwar years whispered of cocktails, jazz, parties, intrigue and politics.…
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Bucharest … a day of revelation
This has been an amazing day … two day trips exploring Bucharest’s turbulent past and its effect on the city and its development from medieval times to the present. My guides are passionate about their city and unflinching in exploring it with us. A trip through Bucharest’s history This mornings guide was Stefan who lead…
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Architecture in Budapest; Odon Lechner
Today I spent a pleasant day exploring the architecture of Hungarian Odon Lechner who was working in the 1880s to 1910s. I first discovered his work in Bratislava at the Blue Church and the Gymnasium.Heavily influenced by both Art Nouveau and Vienna Secession his work is colourful, exuberant and idiosyncratic. There are many if his…
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A walk through Shkoder to Rozafa Castle
Well where shall I start. I rather like it here. Shkoder is definitely a city of contrasts. This morning I woke to the sound of a cockerel from some garden nearby and then breakfasted in the garden on fried eggs, a type of spicy sausage, coffee, fruit juice, delicious bread and jam … all for…
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A day in Montenegro; Perast, Kotor and Budva
Today was interesting. A trip to three coastal towns in Montenegro each very different and maybe catering for a different audience. Only seven of us in a minivan with a driver who exhibited the macho culture in spades. However that was ok as we were very much left to our own devices in each town…
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At the Pinakothek der Moderne
On a beautifully sunny morning in took a walk through Munich and ended up in this peaceful place. This is an excellent and inspirational gallery and I think one of the best in the world. Its a beautifully curated collection showing the best of painting, photography and sculpture from the Twentieth century. Of course it…
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At the FolkeMuseum Bygdoy
This was a great day out and the weather was beautiful today; a ferry trip to the museum and a wander around this enlightening space. Founded in the 1890s it’s sim is to display Norwegian culture and heritage through buildings and objects. It is a little like our Weald Museum in Sussex and it contains…
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First impressions of Oslo
Well the hostel is fine if large like all these northern hostels. I miss the smaller type of hostel I found in Italy. The city is modern and I was told it was boring but so far I’ve walked the city centre, past the Cathedral and ended up by the fjord and the Akerhus fortress…
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Wandering in Stockholm Old Town.
I’m now wandering in Stockholm Old City getting my bearings. It’s very attractive with its cobbled streets and painted buildings. It is very touristy but that’s to be expected. Tomorrow I’ll go in search of something less so. I’ve been recommended Sodermalm as hipster Stockholm so I’ll give it a try. One thing intrigues me;…
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Another day, another trip … Turku
Today was drizzling in Helsinki but I caught the train to Turku where the sun was shining and it was beautifully warm. Shirt sleeve weather. This is the ancient capital of Finland and major city when it was ruled by Sweden. It is the oldest city in Finland but little if the ancient city survived…
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A morning in Tallinn
The tourists have arrived in force as the cruise ships are docking this morning. Spanish, French, Italian, Japanese, German and many Americans. Question asked in Tourist Information; “ what can I see in the city in two hours? I have to be back on the ship.” Hansa trading city Tallinn has a fascinating history. The…
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A trip to Suomenlinna on the ferry
Suomenlinna is a fortress on a group of islands just off Helsinki built when Finland was ruled by Sweden. Building started in 1748 and it served as a navel base during the Swedish War with Russia. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site it’s a beautiful place to wander and take in the Baltic Sea and…
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In Helsinki
I e arrived in Helsinki. Bustling and interesting. I’m loving some of the Victorian and thirties architecture. It’s hot and sunny … 24 degrees. I e booked into the hostel and found my bunk … it seems fine. It’s A very boho neighbourhood near the city centre surrounded by cool bars. I’ll go out exploring…
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The afternoon tour
This afternoon our tour with the lovely Maurizio took us to the 13th century church of Santa Maria Novella. Not necessarily beautiful architecturally though it was interesting. A large church it’s principal interest lay in the wonderful frescoes in the Tornabuoni chapel by Ghirlandaio from the late 15th century and those earlier frescoes in another…
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A visit to the Museo del Duomo e La Battisteria
This morning I awoke a little later than usual. I didn’t realise how tired I was. I had booked tickets for the museum and the Baptistery as the weekend is free. It’s a little drizzly today but very warm. The museum is excellent. To preserve them many of the original sculptures together with Ghiberti’s fabulous…
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Pomeriggio a L’ospidale degli Innocenti
This afternoon we had a wonderful afternoon at the Ospidale. A very beautiful renaissance building by Brunelleschi. It was a fascinating place founded by the guild of silk makers in the fifteenth century as a place where women who were poor, prositutes and abandoned children could be left to be cared for by the church.…
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At Pere Lachaise
This is such a beautiful cemetery. Burial place of the rich and famous. There are so many graves and monuments and it’s so peaceful. Birds and trees and the sunshine today is wonderful … the place is full of strolling tourists. I think there are over a million burials … it’s still in use ……
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Ravenna III
Baptistery of Neoniano Another beautiful little brick building hiding wonders. Sixth century. I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves
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Ravenna II
Mausoleum of Galla Placidia This tiny fifth century brick building is a jewel inside. It looks nothing from the outside but the interior is full of wonders. The mosaics show early Christian iconography and imagery in Byzantine style; very different from our later ways of depicting Christ. It is utterly moving and so beautiful. The…
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The Mosaics of Ravenna I
San Vitale I’ll publish each church separately Begun in 525 this remarkable building was built and later decorated under the aegis of the Emperor Justinian and his wife, the powerful Empress Theodora. Both appear in these fantastic mosaics. They are truly inspirational in scale and workmanship. The photos don’t do them justice … the golden…
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Il Torre Asinelli
I did it … 97.2m and 498 steps … I as terrified but it was exhilarating… and fantastic views of the city … when I dared get close enough to the edge. There used to be over 100 towers in Bologna but only 24 remain. Asinelli is the tallest. The neighbouring tower, Garisanda leans at…
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The Archiginnasio di Bologna
This is a is a splendid place. The seat of the old university and still in use as it houses the rare book collection of the university and also the Stabat Mater room which is used for some lectures. Redolent with learning and the researches of great minds of the past. It also contains the…
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… to Aquileia… a hidden jewel
I wasn’t sure what I would find here. A train journey and then waiting for a bus it seemed quite a journey as it’s about 40 miles from Trieste. However I’d heard about it and it is yet another UNESCO world heritage site so I thought it would be worth a look. I walked a…
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By boat to the islands… Murano and Burano
Murano Taking a trip to the islands. It’s a beautiful day and while it’s breezy the sun is warm. It will be nice to have some time away from the city. Murano is very pretty and remarkably quiet. We had our glass demonstration which was interesting. Murano , contrary to expectations, was really lovely with…
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A little afternoon trip to Vicenza
A pretty little town which on a Sunday afternoon had a chilled and relaxed vibe. Everyone out for an afternoon stroll in the sunshine; a spritz, a coffee, a spremuta and some pasticceria. Musicians in the street, people window shopping (some great shops) or just taking the air. Young and old it felt so natural…
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A first morning in Venice … La Serenissima
I’m sitting in Florian’s in St Marks Square as I write. A piece of Vienna in Venice. Rather beautiful inside but of course it’s now a tourist attraction resting on the myth of turn of the century bourgeois experience. But the coffee is good even if it costs an arm, a leg and a head.…
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Ducal Palace in Mantua
The Palace is remarkable. It is a huge space with so many rooms and galleries. It is a testament to the wealth, power and pride of the Gonzaga family who ruled here. The frescos by Mantegna in La Camera degli Sposi are absolutely wonderful. Painted into wet plaster they seem fresh as the day the…
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Siena and a wine tasting
After San Gimignano we left for a lunch and wine tasting. You know me and wine … I drink it … but the owner who took us around and lead the tasting during lunch was passionate about his work and it showed. The winery specialised in Chianti but also made Balsamic Vinegar which seemed just…
Escape to myself 