Walking Yamanobe-no-michi

The old road

Today I decided to walk in the mountains outside Nara. It was 30 degrees but I still managed 11 miles. It was a magical experience. Yamanobe-no-michi is the oldest road in Japan and linked Nara to Edo (Tokyo). A train ride of 15 minutes took me to Tenri where i picked up the trail.

It was a wonderful experience… Shinto shrines, Buddhist temples and ancient landmarks appeared at random as I walked. Very few walkers and no Europeans just dragonflies, birdsong and butterflies and the sound of grasshoppers in the rice fields. The road started through rice fields and wound in and out of persimmon orchards with forays into the forest snd through little villages. As I walked you came across many wayside stalls selling local produce… i bought some frozen persimmons to eat as I walked and some delicious little green limes which were so refreshing.

A wayside stall

The first shrine I came to was Isonokami jingu Shinto Shrine which was really beautiful, hidden amidst the woods and full of worshippers.

I got a little lost but Kudo, A local farmer, put me right and walked a little way with me. Japanese people are very helpful.

Walking on further brought some wonderful views and later to another beautiful shrine amidst a huge ancient cemetery..

Yatogi jinja

The path was well provided with restrooms every few miles and wisteria gazebos where you could rest and fill a water bottle.

Wayside rest stop

The views were wonderful.

Poem stone

Chogakuji Buddhist Temple

The final place i visited was the most beautiful Buddhist temple set in glorious gardens. Some buildings were 800 years old. I was shown round by a very hospitable priest who took me into the guest house before I went into the temple hall and wandered the grounds. Spectacular. I felt i was really in Japan.

The guest house
Temple hall

Such a wonderful and tranquil day. Unforgettable.As i stood by the lake looking at the temple a crane took off over the water. What could say •Japan” more subtly.

It’s useful to know the road runs parallel to the railway and stations are signposted from the path so your walk can be long or short.

4 responses to “Walking Yamanobe-no-michi”

  1. Completely magical! 11 miles!!!

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    1. It was really wonderful… x I’m a little tired but rest day tomorrow… and laundry

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  2. katiethompson1630 Avatar
    katiethompson1630

    What an amazing experience and 11 miles was a very decent effort! The photos are lovely. Hope you enjoyed your rest day!

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    1. It was pretty fabulous

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