Escape to myself

I arrived in Durres this morning having ditched bus and train travel … there are no trains and after six weeks the buses with a rucksack were too complicated … so a cheap taxi! Durres is a port city and with its spacious city square and palm trees seems, at first sight, more cosmopolitan than Tiranë, catering more for tourists though it is quiet by the sea today. However like many Albanian cities its modernity may be superficial. There is no doubt Albania is trying to catch up economically after years of isolation. But behind the scenes things are a little different. Dereliction lies behind many new buildings.

Durres has a long history. Founded by Greeks in the seventh century BCE and later colonised by Romans, Byzantines, Venetians and Ottomans it has a few surviving archaeological sites. There is an amphitheatre, a classical forum and a few other remains but all are in poor condition no conservation having been attempted under communist rule. The main mosque was used as a youth palace when religious observance was outlawed though it is now reinstated. There is also a Christian cathedral.

The hostel is very basic but cheap, clean and has the advantage of being on the city square and a charming courtyard

Sunday sees Albanian elections… tonight there is a rally in the square outside the hostel … very noisy: car horns everywhere and pounding music. Very derivative. The Eye of the Tiger at the moment! Not sure which party!